Kuchch- The Hills and the Flats
beyond the RANN
beyond the RANN
(Part 2 of 2)
We stayed at CEDO Home Stay (Center
for Desert & Ocean), at Moti Virani, Kuchch, run by Mr Jugal Kishor Tewari
and his family. The Tewari’s are an ecologist and naturalist family. Conservation seems
to run in their blood and they operate many initiatives related to environment and
other social causes through their CEDO Trust.
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| Tea time at Banni Grassland after day's birding with Mr Jugal Tewari, CEDO |
Having worked on Field
Environment and Ecology of Kutch and other arid regions of the world for long
time, Mr Tewari, is an authority when it comes to the natural history of
Kuchch. A passionate human being and an insightful preacher. In his foot steps, every member at the CEDO home stay are outstanding folks. Loved interacting with each one of them. For more detail checkout www.cedobirding.com.
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| Our Team (L-R : WingCo TK Sarkar, Arunava, Runa, and AD) |
Kuchch
is an active tectonic region and a place with spectacular geological
monuments. Earthquakes are quite common here, which in-turn is continuously altering
its geo-morphological character. Kutch
basin is richly gifted with different deposits and structural features of a geological time scale since 200 million years. The region
is conspicuously featured by uplands surrounded by lowlands. The uplands are
rugged hilly terrain bordered by coastal plains. The lowlands are
mud and salt flats (Rann) and grassy undulations (Banni). Sedimentary rocks from the Jurasic age cover
Kuchch. Limestones, shales and sandstones are the most common rocks, apart from
basaltic rocks. Number of plant & animal fossils have been found in the region. Mr Jugal Tewari houses an impressive personal collection
of such fossils at CEDO. We were privileged to have a glimpse of his impressive collection.
Banni Grassland (Lowlands) is an area
where the ‘Maldharis’ rear the famous Banni cattle breed (which is productive
even in extreme weather conditions). In decent times this vast grassland is usually under 2 - 3 feet of water and thus a good ecological habitat. The Maldharis are in dire state this year
due to truant nature of monsoon for the third successive year.
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| The parched Banni Grassland |
The drought on the other hand has bought forth a natural wonder for wildlife seekers. The grassland
has become a thriving colony for bandicoots, which in turn has attracted Raptors
of all sizes and shape. During our recent visit you could see
anywhere between 100 - 300 raptors hunting on the vast Banni Grassland, apart
from other predators such as Jungle Cats, Desert Cats and Indian Jackal. Such large concentration of Raptors is a rare phenomena. More
about birding and wildlife in a separate post.
There are several sites in Kuchch
which were part of the Indus Valley Civilization, which existed when the Indus
river flowed through Kuchch. This has perhaps influenced the heritage & practices
of the land. Employing traditional methods, from lands as far as ancient
Persia, the people of Kutch produce some of the finest handicrafts,
jewellery and pottery, and the region is a riot of colour, skill and beauty.
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| Colourful attire of Kuchch folks |
Another place of historical interest
is Lakhpat, named after the ruler of Sindh Rao Lakha. It was an important trading port,
as long as the Indus river (Sindhu) flowed through Lakhpat. It is said Guru
Nanak Ji stayed at the Gurdwara Lakhpat Sahib before his voyage to Mecca from
Lakhpat Port.
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| Gurudwara Pehli Patshahi - Gurunank Ji rested here before sailing to Mecca from Lakhpat Port |
The Lakhpat Fort built in 1801 still stands testimony to the once
upon a time glorious period of Lakhpat.
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| Lakhpat Fort built in 1801 |
BSF’s Lakhpat Border Outpost stands
adjacent to the Fort, guarding the region against any enemy onslaught from
across the coastline. We felt privileged
to be allowed to spend time with the BSF folks at the BOP unit, to hear about their
world, lives, and experiences. Quite a humbling interaction since our visit happened
few days after the Pulwama incident and the borders were quite tense.
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| With Commanding Officer BSF 79 Unit |
35 Kms south-west of Lakhpat lies
Narayan Sarovar, yet another unique eco-system. The Kuchch region boasts of
the longest coastline (1650 Km). Partly due to the tectonic activities and shallow shoreline, the coasts are blessed with an abundance of
marine resources. Though initially planned, we somehow did not
get time to explore the marine life this time. There is so much more to explore
in this enchanting region, that the 4 days we spent is just not enough. It surely mandates another visit.
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| Decaying pillar of Lakhpat Fort made of limestone, mud and stone during 1801 |
When you visit next time, do step beyond
the Rann, think of walking/driving across the Rann if you dare to take a little
risk. Or check out the nomadic breeds of Kuchch such as Banni buffalo, Kankrej Cattle, Kharai Camel, Tazi and Kuchi Afghan Shephard dog breeds. Or try and experience the rural tribes and pristine
villages. You would be pleasantly surprised.
Seek out unchartered territories! Should you need any guidance, feel free to ping me.
We moved on from the mesmerizing region of Kuchch
to the only remaining abode of the Asiatic Lion within the Girnar Mountain Range!
.. more about it in the next update… Stay tuned.
Do spare a moment and share your feedback.
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