RADVenture 2024 - Episode 1 : Unvieling a Wilderness Surprise

Unveiling a Wilderness Surprise

Kolkata - Jagdalpur - Pandavapura

(June 10 - June 15, 2024)

 

 

Our 'Discover India' annual pilgrimage of 2024 commenced on June 10th.

Early start - June 10,2024 ...familiar stretch of NH 49 (earlier NH06)

Runa & I in front of Chitrakoot Waterfall (Chattisgarh)

Every year, Runa & I embark on an epic Odyssey spanning 3 to 4 months, covering ~ 10,000 kilometres (approx) across hills and plains of India, breaking journey along the way. Starting from our home base in Kolkata, our destination usually is Pandavpura, nestled on the banks of the Cauvery River in Karnataka, near Mysuru but with a twist. Each journey is a quest to traverse newer territories and uncover seldom-explored routes. Amidst the adventure to seek out new stop-overs, the unexpected spin is injected by 'google maps' subtly recommending obscure and often nonexistent paths; to be able to spot such pitfalls, experience and intuition helps.

 

Despite a delayed start this year (June 2024) due to the prolonged parliamentary elections (which eventually ended on June 4), we hoped the monsoon would help us beat the scorching heat that had gripped Bengal and Odisha. Folks cautioned us about the potential dangers of the summer and the challenges of the less-travelled path. Devoid of respite from the blazing heat, our spirits were high, fueled by the promise of discovery and the thrill of the unknown.

 

From home to our destination in Pandavapura, we drove 2,264 km, crossing seven states, which by and large could be split into three distinct phases.

 

Phase -1 > Kolkata - Sonepur (Odisha) - 618 Km;

Route: NH 49 / NH 153 B / NH 57

The route from Kolkata to Deoghar along NH 49 cuts through sections of the Eastern Ghats

We had travelled a significant portion of the route earlier during our trips to Mumbai. With some apprehension, we headed South at Deoghar, not knowing the road's condition ahead. Surprisingly, the road, though primarily a single-carriageway, was wide and smooth, except for a few deceptive speed breakers.

The first Phase - From Home to Sonepur

We arrived at our destination by lunchtime on June 10 2024, having started at 5 am (approximately 8 hr travel time). The phase's last leg (50 Km) was beautiful, traversing along Mahanadi. We also crossed the Tel River, which finally merges into Mahanadi at Sonepur. Sonepur certainly would be an excellent place to explore during winter. Since the day temperatures were 40C+, we only ventured out briefly during the early hours. Bird activity was minimal along the Mahanadi coast, except for the White-browed Wagtail, a few Cormorants, Common Myna, House Sparrow, and House Crows; we came across few bird species.

Sonepur was an overnight stopover.

On 11June morning before setting off on our journey southwards, we visited the banks of Mahanadi River at Sonepur during the early hours of the day

 

Phase -2 > Sonepur -Balangir - Kalahandi - Jagdalpur - Dantevada - Bijapur -Bhopalpatnam - Gadchirolli - Warangal - Hyderabad - 880 Km;

Route: NH 57 / NH26 / NH 30 / NH63 / NH 353C /NH 163

 

On June 11 2024, we set off on the most exciting stretch, venturing into it for the first time. In the past, we have driven along the eastern part of Eastern Ghats (along the coastline (Odisha) quite a few times. This region, the part of the west, has a rustic charm and scenic beauty; it is historically and culturally rich, is sparingly populated and, most importantly, has been in the news for the wrong reasons. Cutting across, one witnesses green hillsides, forest patches and open spaces, apart from agricultural activity. 

Tel River (a tributary of Mahanadi)

Bridge over River Tel, connecting Bolangir & Kalahandi districts

The most remarkable aspect is that these regions are still pristine and devoid of concrete jungle. Tribal folks, more rooted to the ground, predominantly inhabit a large portion of this tract. Ironically, this area has been amongst the most backward, as per published reports marred by persistent crop failure, lack of access to essential services and entitlements, starvation, malnutrition and migration.

A brief history -

This territory - Sonepur, Balangir, Kalahandi, Koraput -  dates back to the primitive period when well-civilized, urbanized, and cultured people inhabited this land mass around 2000 years ago. The finding of plant fossils in the southwest basin of the Tel River in Kalahandi pushes back the antiquity of primaeval shrubs on this landmass to at least 0.1 million years before the present. The world's largest celt in the Stone Age and the largest cemetery in the megalithic age were discovered in Kalahandi, which shows that the region had a civilized culture since the prehistoric era - Wikipedia.

Around the 10th century AD, the region, including Western Orissa, Kalahandi, Koraput, and Bastar, was known as Trikalinga. It was a strategic region, thus inviting prolonged periods of wars and strife. As per Wikipedia, the Naga dynasty of Kalahandi is the only dynasty in Odisha with a record of thousands of years (1050–1948 AD) of rule. Due to the protracted power struggle, most parts of the Western Odisha region turned into a vassal state.

In the 1980s, Kalahandi, Balangir, and Koraput became infamous for drought, child selling, malnutrition, and starvation death (source Wikipedia). The Government announced significant development projects for Odisha's Kalahandi-Balangir-Koraput (KBK) corridor — which in the current stage encompasses the eight districts of Koraput, Malkangiri, Nabarangpur, Rayagada, Balangir, Sonepur, Kalahandi, and Nuapada — India's most backward tracts during the 90's. Where there is poverty and starvation, there is always exploitation and looting. Eventually, the region turned into a 'Red Corridor'. Tribal grievances that persisted were leveraged by the Naxals, leading to rebel control in many parts of the tracts. Fortunately, things are rapidly changing and changing for the better.

Primarily a man-made disaster, coupled with State apathy, the largely rural and tribal-dominated region saw deaths, starvation and malnourishment. Luckily, the devoted action of activists and a responsive judiciary with intense court-monitored work over nearly two decades has helped mitigate famines' impact on people in the KBK districts of Odisha [source - Sanjay Parikh, Courts & Hunger: Understanding the Man-made Disaster at Kalahandi, Bolangir & Koraput in Odisha (Vani Book Company, 2022)]. Kalahandi is now the second-largest producer of rice in Odisha, while Bolangir is the largest grower of cotton.

 

The immediate impact of large-scale poverty has affected wildlife and forests, bearing the brunt of the locals' pursuit of survival.

Winding through this cultural epicentre, we arrived at Bastar Greens ( an eco-stay), a serene haven.

Bastar Greens Eco Stay

Mud Cottages at Bastar Greens

Rooms are very spacious and allow natural air flow

 

We had the privilege of engaging with Ameet Mandovia, a naturalist and entrepreneur committed to preserving the environment and empowering local communities devoted to sustainability and responsible tourism.

Dinner @ Bastar Greens

Jamuns @ Bastar Greens

     

Under Ameet's guidance, we got a glimpse of the rich bio-diversity of the Kangar Valley at Bastar. Coming from the intense heat of Kolkata, Jagdalpur and Kanger Valley was a stark contrast. The greenery and the rich tapestry of simplicity left a significant mark.

Bastar Greens cottages

Bastar Greens campus

 

We spent two days exploring Kanger Valey National Park and its buffer zones. The home of the Bastar Hill Myna (Gracula religiosa peninsularis), a subspecies of the Common Hill Myna. Ameet my partner & naturalist shared stories, efforts and initiatives in conserving this state bird of Chattisgarh. The Kanger Valley National Park in the Bastar district of Chhattisgarh is an exciting place dotted with caves, waterfalls, and dense forests. Along with Ameet, we met with Raidhar Nag, a group of locals trained as 'Myna Mitra' (friends of the Myna), youngsters from the Indigenous Dhurwa community employed to track, monitor and protect the Bastar hill myna. Raidhar is also a trained bird guide. Seeing his expertise in recognizing bird calls as he led us through the forest impressed me.

With 'Myna - mitra Raidhar Nag' & Ameet Mandovia at Kanger Valley NP

 

Kanger Valley National Park - Pristine forest dotted with caves

Birding at KNVP [detailed checklist updated on eBird]

The first comprehensive bird survey in Chhattisgarh's Kanger Valley National Park, conducted in 2022, recorded over 200 bird species. This unique park, strategically located near the Eastern Ghats, Himalayas, and northeastern tracts, has become a biodiversity hotspot. It harbours fauna from all these diverse regions, a rare phenomenon in bird distribution. During our visit, we encountered a remarkable variety of birds, butterflies, dragonflies, damselflies and insects (see Ebird for the checklists).

The onset of the monsoon further revealed the wilderness in its prime, aligning with the breeding season for many species.

 

Chitrakoot Waterfalls

Mendri Gumar Valley near Chitrakoot Falls

Foxtail Orchid

Voodo Lily

After two exhilarating days immersed in the wild beauty of Bastar and the hospitality of Bastar Greens, feasting on freshly plucked fruits from the garden, we hit the road on the next leg of our journey to Hyderabad. Our chosen route led us across south Chattisgarh through the Indravati National Park. 

 

We embarked on our journey on June 14, 2024, at 5:00 am. The drive was blissful, taking us through a verdant wonderland of well-laid roads and sparsely populated landscapes. The tristate border of Chattisgarh, Maharashtra, and Telangana was the only span to put you 'ill at ease', with a significant presence of paramilitary contingents doing reconnaissance and dominance drills due to its tryst with insurgency.

 

We arrived in Hyderabad at 1.30 pm and checked in for the overnight stay.

 

Phase-3 > Hyderabad - Kurnool - Devanahally - Dobhaspet - Kunigal - Nagamangala - Pandavapura - 711 Km;

Route: NH44 / NH 648 / NH 75 / NH 150A

 

The final leg to Pandavapura went as expected. Kicking off at 5:00 am on June 15, 2024, we hit NH 44 within minutes and cruised down the national highway to Devanahalli, on Bangalore's outskirts. From there, we transitioned to NH 648, NH 75, and NH 150A. We've been driving this route since 2020, and it's a testament to the relentless march of progress. Traffic has exploded, and so have the speed breakers. The highway is now teeming with smaller vehicles that stubbornly occupy the middle of the road, swaying unpredictably as if they own the place. On the bright side, they force you to keep you wide awake, always on high alert for their next wild move.

 

Steaming Idli & Vada at Gooty Dhaba

After a breakfast halt at Gooty (Andhra Pradesh) and a lunch break near Kunigal (Karnataka), we finally rolled into Sharadindu (senior commune) at Pandavapura at 2.45 pm on June 15, 2024, covering a distance of 711 Km in 9hrs-45mins.

We conclude Episode 1, while the journey continues. Will keep sharing stories ... as new vistas unfold.

 

Behind the steering, I love to ponder,

Driving off to lands far yonder,

Embrace the freedom, which I yearn,

On a journey to seek and learn.

 If you liked it ... share a comment please. 🙏