Monsoon Birding
in the
Blue Mountains (Nilgiris)
Kotagiri - Conoor - Gudalur
(July 22 - July 26, 2024)
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| Silver Oak trees soaking in the morning rays ... day break scene from Thillai Cottage - Kotagiri |
Birding in the Nilgiris is unique due to its diverse bird species and endemics. The region offers a variety of habitats, from high-altitude shola forests to grasslands, making it a haven for bird watchers seeking rare and colourful avian species.
Runa and I set out for our rendezvous with the Nilgiris, fondly referred to as the 'Blue Mountains.' Tucked away in the Western Ghats, bordering Tamilnadu and Karnataka, this gem is a haven for those seeking tranquillity and natural beauty, a perfect place for adventure and solitude.
The Nilgiris is more than just breathtaking landscapes; it is a rich tapestry of culture, history, and nature intricately woven together. The two of us thus set off with an aim to do birding and, in the process, explore the countless wonders it holds.
We were fortunate to connect with Shri Aggal Sivalingam, the famous wildlife expert of the Nilgiris, for our trip. Agal is a true gentleman, a tea planter, a self-taught photographer, a bird-watcher, and a camera trap expert. He recommended we stay at Thillai Cottage in Kotagiri and explore the region for birding and other adventures.
This was monsoon season (end July), and this year 2024, the monsoon season came in quite heavily during July 22 - 26, our planned visit dates. Moreover, there were repeated advisories issued by the Government of Tamil Nadu to avoid the Nilgiris due to the weather. This certainly was a depressing setback. Instead of waiting and sulking, Runa & I decided we should take the plunge.
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| The Route: from & to ... Sharadindu (Pandavapura) |
Thus 22 July, we set out from Pandavpura and decided to approach the Nilgiirs from the eastern side i.e. instead of going Pandavapura - Gundalpet - Masinagudi - Ooty - Kotagiri, we went around the other way Pandavpura - Talakadu - Chamarajnagar -Styamangala TR - Mettupalyam - Kotagiri 201Km. The idea was to negotiate the ascend from the drier side.
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| On our route we stopped by at the UNESCO Heritage site : Keshava Temple - Somnathpura |
Day 1 > 22 July—Pandavapura to Talakadu: This is a short and straightforward drive through the countryside, by and large, along the banks of the Cauvery River with vast stretches of rice cultivation. On the way, we briefly stopped at Somnathpura (the third site among the Hosyala Temples with a UNESCO World Heritage tag).
Talakadu is a sleepy little town. The locals said that a lot of Kannada movie shootings happen along the banks of Cauvery. We checked into Raaya Resort—The River Club. Like most of our experiences, we were the only residents. We had to get hold of the staff and convince them that we were genuine folks planning to stay over. Once convinced, the resort staff were amiable and ensured our comfort.
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| River Front ... Talakadu |
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| Rain clouds over Kavery river front at sunset ... Talakadu |
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| The scene across the river front .... rain clouds over the river - Talakadu |
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| Raaya - the river front resort |
Raaya - the river resort nestled right on the banks of the River Kavery, offered a spectacular sight. It was monsoon season, and the river was in full frenzy, water levels filled to the brim with strong currents trying to breach the banks.
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| River front - Raaya Resort |
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| River front - Raaya Resort |
Amidst the tumultuous flow, floating chunks of water hyacinth provided a perch for Herons, Egrets, and Swamp-hens, who hitched a ride in this dynamic landscape. We had the privilege of enjoying a pleasant boat ride on the Kavery.
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| View from the boat |
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| The boat ride on Kavery |
The most lovable thing about the resort is the presence of a dozen-odd giant trees, probably 50 - 60 years old. Most of the trees were the Indian Butter Tree (Madhuca longifolia). There are two known varieties of Madhuca, var. longifolia, in southern India and parts of Sri Lanka. The other one, Madhuca latifolia, occurs more commonly in the country's northern parts. The trees had plenty of fruits, attracting a huge swarm of Indian Flying Foxes (Indian Fruit Bats).
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| Moods and moments of the Indian Fruit-bat also known as the Indian Flying-fox |
A campfire was set up in the evening! We retired to bed early.
Day 2> 23 July - We set out after breakfast, leaving behind the bustle of Chamrajanagar. Soon, we entered the serene expanse of Satyamangla Tiger Reserve in Tamil Nadu. The drive through the reserve was nothing short of soothing and refreshing.
Surging Kaveri as we criss-crossed the river on our way to Kotagiri
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| Driving thru Satyamangala Tiger Reserve |
Bhavani River Dam (1948 - 55)- also known as as the Bhavanisagar Dam, is oneof the largest earthen dams in the world located in the Erode district of
Tamil Nadu, India.
After crossing the reserve, we meandered to Kotagiri, arriving at Thillai Homestay around 1:30 pm. Kotagiri is a charming hill station located in the Nilgiri district of Tamil Nadu. Nestled amidst the serenity of mountains and tea gardens is the Thillai (Cottage) Homestay, a beautiful property. As soon as we settled in, we were served steaming bowls of rasam, sambhar, and rice.
The taste was unforgettable—pure bliss!
Post lunch, just as the desire to indulge in a short siesta was getting stronger, Agal Sir called, exclaiming, "Let's get cracking for a round of birding." In an instant, thoughts of a nap vanished, and we set off to pick up Agal before heading to the enchanting Catherine Water Falls. In the next couple of hours, we saw almost twenty-odd bird species, of which the Crested Tree Swift, Hill Swallow, and Malabar Parakeets were in more significant numbers, including a solitary Black Eagle gliding in the sky. It was a great start to our visit. Not to be finished, Agal suggested we trek uphill towards a spot where leopards and bears appear towards dusk. And he had been tracking them for quite a few years.
Within the next 30 minutes, we began our uphill trek through the bushes of a tea garden near Aravenu, heading to a prime spot for leopard sightings. As we waited for the spectacle, Agal shared numerous captivating snapshots from his camera traps, featuring melanistic leopards (black panthers) and normal ones. About seven leopards have been regularly spotted in these private tea gardens.
The drizzle added a mystical touch to our vigil. A giant ficus tree loomed nearby, adorned with massive bee hives, where blue-bearded bee-eaters were revelling in their feast. Agal pointed out that the elusive Nilgiri Marten is often spotted in this area, though we did not see the little beast. Our only luck was to see the back of a leopard sneakily climbing into the rocks and soon dissapearing into the bush.
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| Painted Bush-Quail |
As dusk settled in, Agal's phone rang. His associate Kartik, tracking from the opposite side of the hill, reported a leopard sighting. We caught a fleeting glimpse of an adult leopard making its way up through the tea garden, moving away from the rock face where they are usually seen before embarking on their nightly hunt. The moment was electrifying, a brief but thrilling encounter with the wild. Soon, it was pretty dark, so we packed off for the night.
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| Birds of Nilgiris |
The following two days (Day3 & Day 4) were a packed schedule.
Cleome Spider: Genus Cleome includes almost 170 species of Spider flowers.
>Getting back to Thillai's for lunch around 12.30pm and out at 3 pm until sunset.
>The last stop every day was to climb to the leopard watch point and check the trap cameras for signs of leopard or bear movements.
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| Tamil bushbrown (Mycalesis subdita) |
All sessions during the day focussed on the endemics and other birds, covering locations in Kotagiri and Conoor! On the last session of the last day of our trip, we had a family of four bears who happily strolled down from the leopard watch point along the edge of the tea garden, burrowing every soft spot for ants. That was a great way to wrap up the trip.
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| Bear Family |
Day 5 > 26 July - Sharadindu, our home in Pandavapura, was just over five hours away (190Km), according to Google. With a leisurely pace, we estimated six hours at most, so we opted for a late start after breakfast. Leaving Thillai Cottage at 8:30 am, we began our journey towards Gudalur. But as we crossed Ooty, the weather turned treacherous. Torrential rain hammered the windshield, gusty winds howled, and visibility shrank to a mere 50 feet. The road ahead was a gauntlet of broken tree branches, unmarked turns, and perilously narrow bends. I struggled to discern where the road ended and the abyss began. It was then I understood why state agencies had warned against driving in the Nilgiris. Of the six hours it took to reach Sharadindu, the Ooty-Gudalur stretch was a true test of grit, patience, and sheer determination.
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| From a scenic drive ..... to a sheer test of grit & patience! |
Wrapping up this episode, we may have missed a few of the elusive endemics of Nilgiris, but that only deepens the allure of these ancient Blue Mountains. Their secrets and enthralling beauty call us back, promising that the wild heart of the Nilgiris will reveal itself to those who care to return.
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